|
|
|
|
We are asked daily both by rottie owners and by other breed owners about canine nutrition. Here at Guardian Rottweilers, we take choosing the correct food for our dogs and puppies very seriously. Nutrition is very important for any breed or species, but especially crucial in large breed dogs. A rottweiler will grow from less than a pound at birth to 80-100+ pounds in the very short space of 12 months. This is one of the greatest contributors to many of the joint problems that plague rottweilers, especially hip and elbow dysplasia. It is very important that you have a genetically strong dog/ bloodlines to help prevent hip and elbow dysplasia, but the dogs diet also plays a major role. It is important that the puppy have a diet that is high in glucosamine and chondroitin to help protect
the joints, and equally important that the diet have an easy to digest
protein source that is in correct balance to ensure a fluid growth
rather that huge growth spurts that can be damaging not only to the
joints, but also to large muscles including the heart.
We have tried MANY foods over that last decade, and have found that there are a few out there that are of merit, but unfortunately, many that are far from adequate. I have also found that popularity or price often have little to do with the quality of the food. Many of the more popular or more well known brands (Eukanuba, Purina, etc.) are often popular only because of aggressive marketing.
I will try to break down the things that I have learned to look for in good dog food to include or exclude, through my research and by trial and error.
First, lets go over what to EXCLUDE.
One of the most prolific allergies among rottweilers (both skin and digestive) is wheat. So I would steer clear of any foods that contain wheat.
Another controversial ingredient is corn. I have read and had explained to me by vets, manufacturers and other breeders arguments both pro and against. To the best of my understanding, whether or not it poses any nutritional value as opposed to being just a filler may have to do with how it is processed. A filler is an ingredient that provides little to no nutritional value, but just "fills" the dog up. Corn is not only another common ingredient associated with allergies, but it is also more difficult to digest. Because it is an ingredient seen in such a negative light more often than not and because there are so many other, better options for a carbohydrate or energy source, I prefer to avoid dog foods that contain corn as well.
By Products. We are all educated to avoid by-products. But what exactly is a by-product? Plain and simple, by products are the products left over after any "usable for human consumption" meat has been removed. By products are a non-specific term and can mean anything from organs, intestine, skin, feet, bills, etc. to even scarier items such as parasite and disease infested tissue, tumors, etc. In other words, stuff that I really don't want to feed my best friend. If the meat source is not specifically identified (i.e. poultry vs. chicken or meat vs. venison) then I avoid it.
Fillers. The term "fillers" is another very ambiguous term used often in what to avoid. A filler is just that- an ingredient added that is inexpensive and used mostly to just fill the dog up. Fillers have little to no nutritional value and should also be avoided. A dog food that is higher in fillers will require a dog to eat several times as much to get half the nutrition it requires. And of course, if a dog is eating 2-3 times more, guess what else he is doing 2-3 times as often in your back yard.
Ok, we have looked at what to stay away from, so what should we look for the food to contain?
Dogs are carnivores so ideally, you want 2 of the top 4 ingredients to be a specific meat source- i.e. chicken, duck, lamb, venison, etc. And if one or more of the meat products is a "meal" (i.e. chicken meal, duck meal, lamb meal, etc.) it will actually have a higher lever of protein than the actual mean (chicken, lamb, etc.) The products are listed on the label in order of weight BEFORE cooking, so most meat (chicken, beef, etc.) is 70% moisture. Once the moisture is cooked out, the amount of actual chicken, lamb, beef, etc. in the dog food is significantly less and therefore the amount of actual protein also. Meal, on the other hand, is already in concentrated form with most of the moisture removed, so it is much more accurate in volume and weight. I prefer to see both on the dog food label- both the meal so that I know I really am getting enough animal protein, and the meat (chicken, duck, lamb, etc.) so that I know my dog is getting enough of the actual animal.
Salmon or Salmon Oil. Rottweiler are a breed that tends to suffer more from dry skin. Having enough Omega 3's like those found in salmon and salmon oil are essential to a healthy, shiny coat and good skin.
Probiotics. I also look for a food that contains probiotics (Live bacteria cultures like those found in yogurt). You see them a lot in the media finally getting recognized for their effective aid in improving digestion, well, they work for our beloved canines and felines also. And if anyone needs help with digestion and settling upset tummies I would think it to be those who drink out of the toilet bowl, lick their bums, and pick-up everything in the yard :)' We travel a lot with our dogs and upset stomachs are pretty common especially when going over seas or after competitions. I love that there is a dog food that takes an active step in helping prevent that.
Finally, I look for a food that has a specified amount of glucosamine and chondroitin, and a food that has a specific Large Breed Puppy formula. As stated above, large breed dogs like the rottweiler really need to eat a dog food that not only has the necessary vitamins and minerals to promote healthy growth, but it is also essential that they be on a food that has the correct balance of proteins so that they have an even, steady growth rather than large growth spurts.
We are currently feeding FROMM dog food. It is important to note that just like there is no one diet that works for all humans, not all dog food will work the same for all dogs and breeds. Individual dogs will have different nutritional requirements, and you will have to adjust what you feed accordingly. The information provided on this page is for educational purposes only and should never take the place of vet recommendations or you dog's specific needs. Other foods we have tried and liked were:
* Life's Abundance (this holistic dog food is shipped right to your door and is free from many of the preservative that other manufactures have to use. I wish that they had a Large Breed Puppy formula and that they had specified levels of glucosamine and chondroitin, but other than that, I love the ingredient list.
* We used Royal Canin for some time and have decent success with it. Love the high levels of glucosamine and chondroitin, but wish they had a corn free formula.
* Also liked Innova, Evo (Evo Red Meat is excellent for a very active dog or one with a high metabolism like our Dunjo), Natural Balance, and Canidae (again, wish it was not just an "all life stages" formula, but respect the quality of the ingredients).
As always, check with your vet before changing your dog's diet, and when looking for a new food, always consider the individual needs of your dog. When switching dog foods, always remember to do so gradually either by following the direction on the bag of food or using our guide:
Day 1-2: 1/4 new food and 3/4 old food
Day 3-4: 1/2 new food and 1/2 old food
Day 5-6: 3/4 new food and 1/4 old food
Day 7: ready for 100% new food.
|
|
|
|