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This page is under construction still, and eventually I will try to organize the questions into topics to make searching for information easier, so forgive the chaos right now.
TAIL DOCKING
Sharon Davies, the coordinator of Rottweiler-Central said something very interesting about Rottweilers. I am curious to know what you think because I am now a little confused. I like the rott with the tail and I agree that if God put it there then it should be there. She said:
1. Should Rottweiler's keep their tails, or not?
"Docking the tail is not a stressful procedure for either the pup or the dam (mother dog). The pup recovers within minutes of the procedure and either goes back to nursing or falls asleep. If a Rottweiler were to still have a tail, the tail would significantly affect the dogs balance. The center of gravity would be shifted back. On a Rottweiler, this can cause problems with training the dog and using him as a working dog. The tail should not be removed on an adult dog - it will disrupt the dog's sense of balance, as well as cause him unnecessary pain. If you are considering a pup that does not have a docked tail, you may want to reconsider whether this is the best choice for you. Unless you or the breeder has some concerns about docking, a dog that does not have a docked tail implies a breeder that is not knowledgeable about the standards for the breed."
So now I'm a little confused.
WOW! Where to begin!?!
I am not familiar with Sharon Davies or the "Rottweiler-Central" but wow, is she ever WAY off the mark.
First, I am sure EVERYONE knows that the Rottweiler is a German dog. The ADRK sets the breed standard and per ADRK standards, the Rottweiler should have its tail. Please see the ADRK standards: http://www.adrk.de/5_standard_e.htm If someone is unfamiliar with the breed standard it is Sharon.
Second, as far as suffering- there is a reason most reputable vets are making a big push against tail docking. The newborn puppy is held down screaming while his tail is clamped and then sliced through skin, nerve, muscle and cartilege. The puppy continues to cry for awhile. Does it move on and eventually cry itself to sleep or begin nursing again? yes, the same way all dogs adapt even when they have been shot or bitten or any number of horrible injuries. Dogs do not dwell on how much it sucks, they just suck it up and drive on. I have partial docked many litters (where I dock some and leave some with natural tail and EVERY single litter that I have partial docked, the pups are SIGNIFICANTLY behind in size- as much as half!! If it is a breeder that has docked the entire litter, they may not notice the difference because all the pups will be equally behind- not just from exerting so much effort into healing this massive open wound at the ned of their body instead of focusing all of it into growing, but also from the possibility of digestive issues associated with the antibiotics (the pups really needs the antibiotics because the open would is directly above where the feces exits the pups body, so the risk of infection is obviously significant.) Where does she base her assumption of "not a stressful procedure for either the pup or the dam"?? Has she been there when the pups tail is chopped off?? I HAVE! Has she seen the distress from the mom?? I HAVE! Did the dam tell her that she had no problem having her newborn pups hacked up because it looked cute???
Finally, YES, the tail does SIGNIFICANTLY affect the balance of the dog and those without the tail LACK!! The reason that Germany and Europe abolished tail docking nearly 11 years ago was not just because of how inhumane it was, but also because of how much BETTER the dogs with their tails perform! They use the tails as a rudder and for balance. If the dogs perform better without the tails, then WHY do German Shepherd Dogs, Malinois, etc. that are FAMOUS for their field and working performance ALL HAVE TAILS!?!
Please read my webpage Tail of tails: http://guardianrottweilers.com/tail.aspx as it provides even more information regarding tail docking and breed standard.
Best Regards,
Alice
PROBLEMS WHELPING
My 4 year old rott just gave birth to a litter or 9 pups. I am not a. Breeder, but I have many friends who, after meeting mine, really wanted a rott. I am in a very uncomfortable position, and I am sorry to burden you with it, but I don't know anyone personally to ask. One of the pups has a rear leg facing the wrong way. He is half the size of the others and I don't know what to do. It seems a tragedy to enter a crippled dog to the world, and I don't have the resources to have a vet fix it. I need the advice of someone experience. Thank you, Ty Clark
I know you probably do not want to hear everything that I am going to say, but it needs to be said. I appreciate that predicament you have gotten yourself into. I am happy to offer my advice, but you also must consider what you are doing.
As well intentioned as you may have been, you should have never considered breeding unless you were in a financial position to do so correctly. How can you say that you do not have the resources to take this pup to the vet? It is too late to make that decision! What would you have done if your female had complications and needed a c-section? or didn't stop bleeding, or any number of complications that can cost thousands of dollars? What if she did not or later does not accept these pups and you now must hand raise 9 newborn puppies? Have you ready or watched or studied anything to help you know what to do and what to expect? Has your bitch had her hips and elbows certified? heart? eyes? has she had her confirmation proven in a show ring? any temperament testing? DNA? registration? how about the stud you chose? This could very well be the reason for such a severe birth defect.
What kind of prenatal care did your female receive? What food did you have her on? Lack of proper care and nutrition can also contribute to birth defects, low birth weight, and failure to thrive.
Was your bitch alone while she was whelping? Could his leg be the result of an injury from mom? Especially with such a large litter, being inadvertently squished and even killed by mom is not uncommon, especially if no one was there to assist in the delivery.
The only advice I can offer on your pup is to have him/her seen by a vet so see what the extent of the injury or defect is and what your options are. You also must now see to the welfare of the rest of your pups as well as your mom. She will need a good, quality food high in protein and fat while she is lactating (producing milk). You will need to check the milk supply of your female to be sure she can nurse the pups and I would also recommend supplementing your pups as well.
You will also need to have your bitch seen by a vet to ensure that she is indeed finished with the labor and that she has not retained any fetuses or placentas as this can cause life threatening infection for her.
I would highly recommend that you do yourself and your dog a favor and have her spayed after this especially if you are not in the position to take care of them properly.
I wish you and your new little ones the very best.
God Bless,
Alice Velasquez
PUPPY BITING AND LEASH TROUBLE
hi,
i have a couple more questions. what is the best way to correct puppy biting? and how much is normal? i just want to make sure i'm doing the right thing now while he is little so its not an issue when hes 50 lbs. when he bites weve been redirecting. grab his collar and take his teeth off whatever he is biting and saying no bite, then giving him his rope or puppy kong. someitmes it works but today and last night its like by grabbing his collar it gets him going and he wants to fight and bite and jump lol. i cant make him stop because if im not holding on to his collar he'll go after our feet or the couch or something and if i grab him he goes after my hand. and twists and rolls. i didnt know if when he does that i should hold him by his collar until he calms down and submits, like cesar or if: 1) too early to do that and 2) if I should even being doing that or if thats only something someone more experienced should be doing.
also, how should i build a good association with the leash? ive only put it on him like twice, but i want to start teaching him to recall and i need to have the leash to do that, but he tries to bite the leash too.
when hes not biting, hes real calm and he'll just sit there and stare at you, he'll sit on command before we give him food, or even tonight when he was biting alot i finally put him in the kitchen to get him to calm down, after he quit crying i walked over and he came to the door i told him to sit, and he did then i let him back in the living room... then he started biting again. this might be normal i just want to make sure i'm handling everything the right way.
i dont want to feel like im always yelling at him or correcting him by grabbing his collar and i def dont want to make him fight ppls hands or anything like that. i didnt know if it maybe i should try the cesar neck poke, or if its too early, i dont want to hurt him or give him a bad impression of human hands.
thanks for the help, i know these are probably newbie questions, lol
Brandon
Unfortunately, all puppy biting is quite normal, but that does not mean that it cannot be corrected. I teach my kids to pop them on the nose. This is VERY effective. You do not have to do it very hard to make it count because their nose is quite sensitive just like ours. Because I am an adult, I use my fingers (like when you are trying to flick a coin or something with your second finger and thumb). The biggest thing to remember with this technique is that 1) you must do it EVERY TIME he bites and use the word NO as well so that he associates the 2 and knows what the word no means and you must do it every time so that he does not just think that sometimes biting is ok and sometimes it is not and 2) you must use that same hand to lovingly pet him and rub him once he is cooperating so that he does not become hand shy and learn that the hand is not up only to correct (like his mom would use her mouth to feed him and clean him and move him and nuzzle him, but she would also use it as a for of correction and nip at him if he was misbehaving and of course always accompany it with a growl so that he eventaually learned that the growl meant "stop or I will bite.") I thinks Cesar's jab at the neck simulating a bite is much more effective then the collar grab as all that really does is send most dogs into either a panic if they are not well socialized or stimulate play if they are well socialized (just like a sibling grabbing the tail or the collar). And right now it seems like he certainly thinks your corrections are part of the game. And you are TOTALLY correct! You DEF. want to get these issues resolved while he is little so that by the time he is large, you are already in charge.
Get a cheap leash (dollar store sometimes has them) and let him use it as a drag line- this means that he can drag it around when he walks so that he becomes comfortable with the leash and learn that even with the leash attached to him, he is still able to walk comfortably. You also want to start walking him with the leash so that he also becomes more familiar with the process. Also, you do not have to use the leash for the recall and you certainly do not have to drag the puppy to you when he is not coming. You always want the recall to be a positive thing. If you have to bribe the pup with treats, then so be it. But even with a leash, all you will do is gently encourage the pup to walk towards you. But we start working with recall from the time they are about 4 weeks old, so he should still come most of the time now when you call him even without a leash. If he does, reward him every time with treats and/or affection and he will learn to come more quickly every time to get his reward. The most important note on a recall is to NEVER USE A RECALL to correct your dog. If he has been naughty, you must ALWAYS go to him. If you call him, then correct him, he will NOT associate the correction with whatever bad behavior you are correction, he will associate it with his recall and quickly learn that if he comes when you call him, he will get in trouble.
I hope those 2 tips help. Please let me know if you have anymore problems and as always give him some lovin' for us!
Alice
TEMPERAMENT PROBLEMS
This may be a very strange email to receive, however my name is chalene and some friends of mine just got a puppy. The "breeder" got rid of it at a little under 5 weeks old. My friends took it in and I have some questions and concerns about it's temperament. I only know American Staffordshire Terriers, being that those are the only dogs I have ever known. I also know that breeders are worlds more knowledgeable than regular dog trainers. So when this now 6 week old puppy is nervous about a situation it lashes out at people, she put a couple of good puncture marks in my shoulder as well as a bruise to accompany it. She bit her owner in the chest and wouldn't let go of their 20 year old son. I don't know the temperament of these dogs, but after reading your website and countless others, I know they are supposed to people friendly. I know with most breeders of Amstaffs, the puppy would be put down, but these are amstaffs and again, i don't know enough about rotts. In my opinion Mishka was taken away from her mother and siblings too soon, all because of a white marking on her chest, and hasn't learned how to behave properly, but it could also be her temperament. Though the guy calls himself a breeder, he's most likely some SOB BYB who just wanted the biggest rotties in town disregarding the stability of the dog. I experience it a lot with pit bulls in this town. She attacked my male amstaff and my foster female pit bull (not that she hurt them at all other than their feelings) and when I scooped her up she then tried to take a chunk out of my shoulder. She is definitely what we would call a fear biter, and it seems like a dangerous temperament to have around young children who frequent the house. Is there any sort of help that we could provide. They have never had a power breed before, just little dogs. Despite that, I worry for the dog and kids, she's very young and I hope that you can give some insight on what can be done.
Thank you for your time,
Chalene
There are 2 parts to a dog's temperament, and this is true of any breed. The first half of the equation is breeding and bloodlines. Just like you can breed for markings, or size, or color, you can also breed for temperament. Because most of the breeding done here in the US is done out of either ignorance (not bothering to take the time to learn the correct breed standard physically or mentally) or indifference (knowing that the dog or bitch you are breeding is incorrect in either physical confirmation or character/temperament and still breeding it anyway just to make $$$) most of the rottweilers produced here in the US lack significantly in health, temperament and physical confirmation. For this reason, nearly everything we use in our breeding program is either imported from Europe or produced by us. The breed standard is so much higher over there and has always been so you have entire bloodlines of healthy, confirmationally and temperamentally correct dogs. That is why we are able to stand behind all of our dogs with a lifetime contract and lifetime breeder support. Most people do not realize how crucial good breeding is even if you never intend on showing. Good breeding not only brings you a more beautiful dog, but more importantly, and health dog with a sound mind. A dog that is not failing in courage, highly intelligent and a constant companion. The second half of the equation, is environment and is also very important which is why we require an interview and contract with every puppy we sell.
The problem with your puppy is more than likely 2-fold.
1) if the "breeder" the puppy came from was too ignorant to keep the puppy beyond 4 weeks, they more than likely pay little attention to proper breeding to include health, confirmation and temperament. Improper breeding and poor bloodlines will produce unstable dogs with bad character and temperament. This can mean either an over-temperamented (aggressive dog) or an under-temperament dog (fearful).
2) the second issue as you said in your e-mail is that the puppy was removed too early and has missed out on the critical socialization/ discipline that comes from mom and siblings. Lacking in both temperament and correct socialization, the puppy really needs to be with someone that has experience or you will have a dangerous dog on your hands. The fact that she has already bitten is certainly a red flag. At this time, I would highly recommend seeking a professional trainer.
Sorry for you misfortune and I hope that things will improve for you.
Best Regards,
Alice Velasquez
LARGE BREED PUPPY FOOD
Hi Alice!
Hope your doing well. We are feeding jaz solid gold wolf cub (large breed puppy food). Should we keep her on puppy food or move her to adult? The lady were we get her food at says she should be on adult food. What do you recommend.
Thanks in advance
Joe
I am happy to hear that Jaz is doing well. She should stay on LARGE BREED PUPPY food until she is 2 YEARS OLD. Smaller breed dogs are done growing much sooner than large breed dogs, but large breed dogs do not reach full physical or mental maturation until about 2 years of age, and will need not only the higher levels of glucosamine and chondritin to help support optimal bone and joint growth, but also the correct level of protein and fat found in Large Breed puppy food to promote a controlled growth rather than huge spurts which can be stressful on the joints as well as large muscle groups including the heart. If you feed a brand that does not have specifically LARGE BREED, then you should NOT feed the puppy food. Puppy formula and LARGE BREED PUPPY formula are VERY different and most Puppy formula's have levels of fat and protein that are too high for a large breed dog and will not provide a controlled growth. Maybe the representative at the store was only familiar with "puppy" formula and made her recommendation based on that, or perhaps she was unaware that large breed pups are not finished growing and developing until 2 years of age.
Give her kisses for me, she is almost a whole year old!!!
Best Regards,
Alice
CRATE TRAINING AND POTTY TRAINING
HI Alice
We need some guidance with potty training! and when/ how to use the crate (which he doesn't like). And a few minutes ago he showed some aggression, growled at me when I told him to stop biting at / tugging on my robe, then snapped at me (and this was not in a playful way...). Then put him in his crate where he is now whining and howling.
Hi Leila,
You should have received pamphlets in your puppy-pack about these issues, and there are a few pages on my website also, but here is the skinny
Crate training.
He will cry almost every time he is put in the crate for about the first week or 2 until he gets used to it. There is unfortunately no short-cut to this. Once he does get used to it, it will be fine and eventually he will prefer it and find comfort in it. You can try giving him treats when he goes into the crate to help with the transaction. But he has gone from complete freedom with a whole litter of pups, mom and plenty if kids to play with to now sleeping solo.
Potty training.
There are a few things to keep in mind:
1.) A puppy should only be expected to hold it for about one hour per month of life.
2.) The size of the crate is very important- the puppy should have enough room to turn around, but not much more. If he can pee in one corner and sleep in the other, then it completely defeats the purpose of crate training.
3.) A puppy will need to go potty:
-as soon as he wakes up
-as soon as he eats or drinks
-right after he plays
-right before he goes into the crate
-first thing when he comes out of the crate
4.) If you are not watching him, then he needs to be in the crate.
Keep in mind, he has NEVER been forced to hold it before and he is only 9 weeks old. He has only been able to go potty by himself for about 6 weeks, so do not expect him potty trained over night. If you stay consistent and patient, he will pick it up.
now to the important stuff.
He does not effectively see you as his pack leader yet for what ever reason, and sees you as a sibling. So just like a 2 year old child, when you take away his toy he will be mad and if you hit him he will hit back. Understanding that this is normal behavior for a 2 year old and a 9 week old puppy does NOT mean that it is to be accepted. Just as you would not let a 2 year old smack you without consequences, you cannot allow this in you puppy either. There are a few approaches to this and you can see what works best for you and your puppy. One method is to grab the muzzle and firmly and decisively tell him no. The method we use most in our house with our pups, youths and adults is to flick the pups on the nose (or for my kids who do not know how to do that with their fingers they just smack the pups, but only on the nose). The key to making this work is that as soon as they comply and stop nipping or growling or whatever they are doing wrong, you must praise them and use the same hand that popped them to pet them. This way they do not become hand shy and realize that the same hand that corrects them also gives affection. Just like a mom or other adult in the pack will nip them when they misbehave, but use that same mouth to lick them affectionately. This way you are seen as a just leader and not a bully. You must also remember to give praise when praise is due and emphasize the good not just the negative.
Rottweilers, especially the good ones can be strong minded dogs so you must make your position as pack leader clear now or you will continue to get challenged and in 6 months to a year, it will be much more difficult. If you are finding it difficult to be the pack leader, you may also want to look into puppy training courses. Look for a trainer that has specific working dog experience. Until you are able to do your job correctly, your puppy will not be able to do hid.
So, to sum things up, remember that he is a puppy and set realistic expectations, but at the same time, you MUST set rules and regulations and enforce them. Just like a good mom, you cannot always just be the friend, you must be the parent first.
Hope this helps! Please let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.
Alice
TRAINING
Hi,
I know you most likely get a million e-mails regarding your website, etc. But I have to respond anyway. I find it refreshing that you have not dedicated your entire website to the status of your breeding program, but more the "greatness" of the breed.
I lost our Tasha almost a year and a half ago to osteosarcoma. And to this day I still am brought to tears when I think about her. She was only introduced to me when I met my husband 10 years ago. At the time, really having no knowledge of rottweilers at all...and quite frankly, a little hesitant about her. But it was not long before she won my heart. She became "my dog." She followed me around the house, got up with me in the middle of the night when I nursed me own babies, and slept always beside my bed every night. She was truly the best dog that I have ever had. She has left a huge emptiness in our family and we miss her terribly.
Having said that, I have begun some research into getting another. It is frustrating for me because- she was my husbands dog first...and because he got her while he was in medical school (and had no intention of breeding her) He had no memory of her lineage. I don't really even know where to start. We would not be getting a dog for breeding purposes- just another member of our family. My 4 year old daughter still walks around with her stuffed rottweiler "Tasha"- I think it may be time for us to try to move forward. Even though we have 2 other dogs- they all have different qualities. My 14 beagle is totally deaf and is not my protector. I need a dog that can make me feel safe again in my home as my husband is gone a lot. I have not felt that since she has been gone.
I've thought about just rescuing a young rottweiler, but my husband said that our Tasha was such a good dog because he worked with her every day. I think they are are highly intelligent and very trainable dogs- but how old is "untrainable?"
Regardless, I just wanted to thank you. I found your website so refreshing and so close to my heart. I appreciate all of your dedication for this wonderful breed. Maybe someday we'll find a new member for our family from you!
Fondly,
Amy
Sorry for the delay in responding, I was in Germany, and then when I got back Ena had her puppies, so I have been SOOO busy!
Thank you so much for your very kind compliments. Yes, my purpose behind the website is not to sell puppies, but to promote the breed and educate everyone that does not own a rottweiler on what they are really like, and educate everyone who does own a rottie on how they should be cared for and trained. I have been blessed to have several amazing dogs be a part of my life and the lives of my children, so I want to "pay it forward."
My deepest sympathies are with you. Having lost a few along the way a well, I know all to well how much it hurts. It feels like your heart has been ripped from you chest. My last one to leave me was my Nova, and there was no consoling me for days. They are a very special dog that touch your life in the way only a rottie can. You and your husband will be in our thoughts and prayers.
Yes, when I was a police officer, I worked nearly an hour from where I lived, and I worked very long hours in rough neighborhoods (Washington D.C.) so it was very concerning for me to be so far away from my family if they needed me, but having rotties at home, I knew they were well protected and safe.
Trainability. Just like poor breeding can affect the confirmation (physical appearance) of the rottie, it can also have a profound affect on the temperament of the rottweiler. Rescuing a rottweiler is great and noble thing to do for some very deserving dogs, and I have a link to a local rottie rescue if you are interested. But because you do not know the bloodlines, or how the dog was raised, I only recommend this for an experienced handler. Environment can play a major role in the mental development of a dog, but so can pedigree. We give great consideration in temperament in our breeding program, this is one of the reasons we like use the German and European bloodlines. In Germany, all dogs are required to take a mental test and a breed suitability temperament test before they are even considered for breeding. This is why we can confidently offer a temperament guarantee on our pups, youths and adults. There is no age or dog that is untrainable. Some dogs are easier to train than others because of the lever of intelligence, attentiveness and desire to please. It is always easier to train from the time they are a puppy, but even an older dog can be trained once you find what motivates them. Consistency and positive motivation will get you the most success.
If there is anything else I can help you with, please do not hesitate to ask.
Best Regards,
Alice Velasquez
PUP PRICING
Hey its Matt again... I just had a few questions
1) If I wanted a dog that looked like DUNJO would that be a $1500.00 dog? (im sure it would be but thought i would ask)
2) I was interested in the "V Litter DUNJO X KENZI" im finished with school in early may, is that when they would be able to go to a home?
3) I also unfortunately just had to pay to put a new transmission in my car so im low on funds for a deposit... would there be anything we could work out? (like a trade?) I dont know how old your kids are but I do have an extremely fun 1985 Honda Odyssey FL350 (needs some work but they sell for about $1500.00-$2000.00)
4) Do you offer any sort of payment plan? Its just alot of money for me to just drop all at once. Food and vet bills would not be a problem but just this $1500 would hurt the pocket book till funds replenish.
5) Or what would work better for ME.. haha is if you could offer some sort of discount.
- I know you can and do make alot of money from your breedings due to the caliber of dogs you have, but if you could do ANYTHING to try to help me out this dog is what I need in my life/family and I know that I could give it a wonderful loving home. I am picky about the dog i want and the quality but im just trying to make sure I get "MY" dog. I plan on getting involved in schutzhund and working with my cousin who is a K9 unit narcotics officer and trains his own dogs. I hope you can see things from my point of view I know this puppy would go to a great home where he would be loved and worked with everyday.
Sincerely,
Matt
Hi Matt,
You have been e-mailing me for over a year now, so I assume that you have researched around and found that the quality of pups and bloodlines we offer are not only some of the best in the country but some of the best in the world. And I am sure that you have also discovered that some of the same bloodlines sell out of Europe for 3x what we ask.
Your first question: show/breed quality pups START at $1500 and can easily go up over $2000. Dunjo is daughter of Akya, sister of the great AMBASSADOR VON SHAMBALA, direct descendant of world famous BALOU VOM SILBERBLICK. Dunjo's sire is LIKE VOM SITTARD. Dunjo has some of Germany's best bloodlines and is a Pink Papered total ADRK male, so even as a puppy you could not get him for anywhere near $2000. As an adult, proven in the ring, proven as a producer and with the confirmation and drive that Dunjo has, you are looking at a six figure dog.
your second question:
Pups must be 8 weeks of age before they can go home. Even though the mom will wean the pup earlier than this, those last few weeks of socializing they receive from their siblings and mom are of upmost importance in setting boundaries for behavior.
third question:
sorry, my kids are 2, 5, 8, and 10.
forth:
yes, we will take any increment of payment provided the pup is paid for in full BEFORE you want to take it home.
fifth:
As stated in the beginning of the e-mail, our dogs/youth/ pups are already well below what you would pay for the same dogs in Europe. We try to keep our prices down because we want more of our pups in family homes rather than just show/breed homes, and when the prices are over $3000 each, nearly everyone will end up in a show/breed home. I will not go any lower on my prices because I WILL NOT compromise the level of care, health, etc. that my pups and adults have. As I have said many times before, if you want a cheap dog, look in your local classifides. I am sure you can find a breeder that dock the tails themselves, skips the shots and wormings, feeds Old Roy, has not shown or worked any of the dogs they breed, nor even knows what confirmation and temperament they should display in order to be bred and certainly does not do any health clearances on any of the adults and has probably only paid a few hundred for each adult. In this circumstance, I am sure they could probably sell you a puppy for $4-500 and maybe even give you a "deal" on that. But as you keep coming back to me, I am also equally sure that you have looked at what they have available and realized that most do not even remotely resemble a real rottweiler in physical appearance or temperament, and you probably even asked about health or temperament guarantees and found that they are NOT given.
And finally for your last statement:
HAHA loads of money! that why my hubby works 2 full time jobs because there is nothing but profit in the dog business- travel, training, vet bills, food, new adults (some over 40-60k), vaccinations, heartworm, website, advertising, whelping, etc.--that all comes for free! Here is a quote from my website, it is a few years old so some of the totals are off, but you can get the idea: "How much money can I make breeding?"
(my reply) "Well, I have sold my pups, youth and imports this year for a grand total of $17,000. If you take from that my expenses: about $800/ mo. on dog and puppy food, treats and toys (about $9,600/ yr.); vet expenses on puppies (about $2000/ litter for prenatal care of the bitch, tail and dew claw removal of the pups, microchipping, vaccinations, de-worming, flea/tick preventative, heartworm preventative, and puppy check-ups); vet expenses of adults (about $250/ mo.--about $3000/yr.-- for Frontline and Inteceptor, about $150/adult for annual vaccinations and check-ups; import and customs fees ($1000-$1500/ import); So, lets see--that's about negative $2,250, but that does not include the extra expense of a sick puppy or adult, whelping supplies or the whelp box, items for the take home puppy care package, travel and entry fee expenses for the dogs shows, my expenses of new imports for Guardian Rottweilers; nearly $1000 per adult to do all health clearances for breeding, the new couch one of the puppies ate, all the sleepless nights and hard work, and of course all the poop you can scoop! So all in all--I guess that's probably why my husband works 2 full time jobs and installs carpet on the side!!
Hope this was helpful"
NAMING THE PUPPY
I was just looking over the contract and I was wondering one thing. By what your contract states I dont even get to pick my dogs registered name, is this correct? If I am paying 1,500 for a dog I should be able to register its name as what ever I want as long as it abides by AKC rules and regulations for names. I have an AKC registered Chihuahua so I am familair with certain types of names not being permitted. Is this one thing in the contract that can be worked around? I have a good solid name picked out for my Rottweiler.
The reason we give the registered name 1) all the pups is that litter start with the same letter, so when you call back 5 years from now, we still know exactly which litter your pup came from 2) If you ever do decide to show or compete in working events, you are walking into the ring or onto the field with a rottweiler that has a well known kennel name which of course give you more credibility and 3) when you do show and your pup/adult places well, then Guardian Rottweilers gets credit for producing such a remarkable example of the breed. All of GR puppies will be registered as "Guardian ____ Von Gottschalk." The blank (____) corresponds to a name starting with which litter we are on. We always start the names with Guardian as a strong reminder of what this bread is best at- loving, affectionate, protective and loyal- a true Guardian. And then they carry my German name Von Gottschalk in honor of my my grandfather. So, we have puppies like "Guardian Riddick Von Gottschalk" from the R LITTER or "Guardian Indira Von Gottschalk" from the I LITTER, etc. I have followed the method of naming litters that Germany and all of Europe have used for naming their pups and litters. This is also helpful for a breeder to know, for example, that my Diesel's sire is from CRNI LOTOS F LITTER so if I like that combination, I would look for another dog from the F LITTER;. or to know that BALOU's A LITTER produced some of his best offspring to date (AMBASSADOR, AYKA (mother of my DUNJO), etc.) We always invite suggestion for each litter letter we are on, and of course you are always free to chose the call name of your dog which does not need to correspond with the registered name.
When we import a puppy, the registered name will already be given on the EXPORT PEDIGREE and cannot be changed. These names are given according to which litter letter the breeder(s) in Europe are on and accompanied by their kennel name. (I.E. the 3 males I just imported from De Baron are Beni, Bronko and Brando Se Ungo-Rot. Uross chose those names as he was on his B LITTER and named with his kennel name "Se Ungo-Rot."
I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions, please let me know.
Best Regards,
Alice
DRINKING TOO MUCH WATER
Hi Alice.
Lately when Jaz drinks water she is throwing it up. I think it is
because she is drinking it to fast. Have you ever encountered this and
do you have any recomendations on stopping it?
Jaz also graduated yesterday from obdience class with flying
colors.
Talk to you soon.
Joe Hi Joe,
It is not uncommon, and you are right, it is typically caused by 2
things: either the is drinking too fast and swallows too much air, or
she is so thirsty that she is drinking too much and her tummy just can't
handle that much. Most of the time it is a combination of the 2.
There are a few ways to go about it. First, try only putting a small
amount in her bowl at a time--forcing her to drink only a little then
waiting before getting more. HOWEVER, you MUST remember to then give
her more later as you do not want her to become dehydrated. Also try
getting her to calm down after hard play outside before she drinks.
Try these tips and let me know how things turn out. Give her big kisses
for me!
Alice
Hey Alice,
Great advice we gave her a smaller amount of water today and she has not thrown up since!
Thanks Alice
BITCH IN SEASON
hi,
Ok so up to now Dagan has been pretty easy to deal with as a puppy, nothing too far out of the puppy norm aside from the intelligence and independence. He has always been SO good about going outside to urinate. Recently I was glad when he started to hike his leg to pee considering when he squats he hunches up like he's trying to poop and ends up peeing on the back of his front legs. So you can imagine my excitement when he began to stop squatting. However, I have recently caught him several times trying to spray on items IN THE HOUSE. We've never had a male dog in the house before and my mom's farm dog was neutered when he was a pup years ago. I expected the wizzing on things outside, but didn't dream he'd do it inside. When I take him out to potty now he just does little tinkles here and there instead of the 2 minute long power pees he used to do, so I can't take him out and be assured that he has an empty bladder when he comes back in. He has become obsessed with the sniffing and peeing, adolescent hormones I know, but is there something that i can do? I'm sure you've run into this, especially having more than one male on your property. I feel like he's 3 months old again and i have to follow him around in the house so we don't have an "accident". Not good at 10 months. We're pretty sure Hanna has started her cycle. We've found random drops of blood but haven't seen it on her and Dagan has taken an extreme interest in her behind. It doesn't help that she frequently puts it in his face for him to inspect. So I'm sure his hormones are out of control. I don't want to make him stay out in the kennel or cooped up in the crate all the time, but he just can't be trusted. He's the first unneutered male I've had so any input would be helpful.
Thanks,
Teresa
Hi Teresa,
yes, you are exactly correct. It is teenage hormones. She is coming into season for the first time, so you need to really watch then next week because she is obviously WAY too young to breed. The problem is, not only are the hormones a new feeling for him, but now with her advertising (that is what the blood is for) it is likely driving him nuts. He is just trying to "advertise" back to her that he is ready and willing and able. Meanwhile she is in season, the best thing to do is to confine him to the crate when you cannot watch him not only because of his desire to make it clear to her that he is ready, and to let any other possible males know that she is taken, but also because you do not want him to get her. You would be amazed at how fast a couple can tie! Another thing that will help is to take him for longer walks so that he will have plenty of new places to mark and hopefully empty the tank :) Poor guy! Give him a hug for me!
Alice
RAISED WATER BOWL
Andy and I bought a raised food & water bowl for Jewel but my Boss said that can increase her chance of getting bloat. I thought it was better to use raised bowls for larger dogs. Should I take it back or keep it?
Leah
That is an excellent question Leah. Bloat is a very serious sudden onset medical condition that can effect any large breed dog because of the large amount of space in the abdominal cavity.
Raised bowl DECREASES the chance of getting bloat and is the best way to feed and give water. What increases the chance of bloat is drinking or eating too much especially right before or after hard exercise. When a large breed dog consumes a large amount of food and/or water and it fills their stomach up, that full stomach is then just bouncing around inside the abdominal cavity. If the dog does hard exercise or running, it is very easy for the stomach to turn on itself and cause life threatening bloat. When the stomach twists on itself, blood flow is cut off to the area that is pinched (like when the clown at the fair twists a balloon) so the tissue will begin to die. If you EVER suspect bloat (hard abdomen, vomiting, lethargy) take your dog to the vet IMMEDIATELY!
I also ALWAYS recommend that if you are going to spay your female, ask the vet to tack her stomach to the abdominal wall while he is in there. It is not much extra effort for the vet and not added stress for the female as she is already out, but it will prevent the stomach from ever turning on itself and causing bloat.
If you have any more questions, please fell free to ask.
Give our little pumpkin kisses for us!
Alice
I have a silly question. why does my 5 month old rotti like to put her butt up against us? Sometimes she does while barking at nothing really. Angie
Not at all a silly question Angie. The "rottie lean" if done to strangers (i.e. those who come to visit and are accepted as ok, but not family) is done to displace the visitor and show dominance- i.e. I can claim any spot you are on. When done as the dog is backing up and barking, she is reassuring herself that she has back-up (you ;) and when done with family and pack members, it is a sign of affection- they love the contact. If you start t pay attention, I am sure you will see the subtle differences in the leans (just like tail wagging- sometimes it is done as a challenge, sometimes it means they are happy, and sometimes it means they are uncomfortable or on alert [usually when very stiff]) When my Diesel leans into myself or the kids, it is a very gently obviously affectionate gesture and he is wanting some lovin'. When he leans into Mark, for example, (our contractor who is here almost daily for the last 3 months getting our kennels and whelping rooms buils ;) if Mark does not have his footing sure, Diesel will literally displace him. It is a very non threatening un-aggressive move that still conveys the dogs power and authority. He is saying "you're my friend and I'm glad you came and you can give me some lovin', but lets be clear whose house this really is and who is in charge. (If you are ever in doubt, let that person try the reverse lean- push back into the rott and she how firm he holds his ground! No growling, just refusal to give ground. Again he is saying, "mine.") Most of dog communication is done with very subtle body movements and gestures- a simple head held high can be the grounds for a fight in a dog pack.
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